TECHNOLOGY-SCIENCE

Surf science and wave science

[Name of student]

Abstract

The history of surfing is hard to track in terms of its origins, since there are no written documents that testify for natives. Despite this we find several ancient testimonies of European travelers who looked at the art of gliding over the water surface. The art of sliding over the surface of water, called He'enalu in the Hawaiian language, was observed by the crew of Captain Cook in Hawaii in 1767. In the early twentieth century, a group descended from ancient Hawaiian kings resumed their ancestral things traced with wooden waves on the beach at Waikiki. This group emphasized Duke Kahanamoku, known as the father of modern surfing. In physics the term wave indicates a disturbance that comes from a source and propagates in time and in space, carrying energy and momentum without causing an associated displacement of matter. Periodic waves are characterized by ridges and hills and valleys, and are usually categorized as longitudinal or transverse. A transverse wave is one with vibrations perpendicular to the direction of wave propagation; examples include waves on a string and electromagnetic waves. The phenomenon is caused by the wind, whose friction with the surface of water produces a drag, giving rise first to the formation of ripples (wrinkles) in the water surface, called capillary waves or waves, only a few millimeters in height and up to 1.7 cm wavelength. The paper discusses the main developments of the science related with the surf and waves.

History

The history of surfing is hard to track in terms of its origins, since there are no written documents that testify for natives. Despite this we find several ancient testimonies of European travelers who looked at the art of gliding over the water surface. With the advent of modern surfing and its spread around the world and we can reconstruct the contemporary history of surfing. Today surfing is practiced in most of the world, although most buoyant industries tables and accessories are based in Australia , Southern Europe (mainly Spain and France ) and the United States (Longhi, & Davide, 2008, pp.329-336).

Beginning In Hawaii

The art of sliding over the surface of water, called He'enalu in the Hawaiian language, was observed by the crew of Captain Cook in Hawaii in 1767. The head (kahuna), who the greatest skill in He'enalu, had the best table made ??of wood of the best tree. In addition to the noble class are reserved for the best beaches, where the lower classes were forbidden to surf, although they could gain prestige surfing in heavy tables (Longhi, & Davide, 2008, pp.329-336).

Thus, James King, in charge after the death of Captain Cook in indigenous hands, wrote in his logbook: One of the most common entertainments is done in water, when the sea is grown, and the waves breaking on the coast (Paolo, 2000, pp.70-93). Men between 20 and 30, they head out to sea dodging the waves, are placed flat on a plate oval approximately the same height and width, keep their legs together on top and use their arms to guide the plate. With the arrival of Scottish and German missionaries in 1821, ...