The problem with the French fries is the detail that it is prepared nourishment in fat makes it unhealthy. But the compare that deep-frying conceives between its central and its exterior—between the golden case and the pillowy whiteness beneath—is what makes it so irresistible. The mean American now consumes a staggering 30 pounds of French fries a year, up from four pounds when Ray Kroc was first figuring out how to mass-produce a crunchy fry. Meanwhile, fries themselves have become less healthful. Ray Kroc, in the early days of McDonald's, was a follower of a ...